Iris Publishers_Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology (JTSFT)

 The Textile Reuse Programme: Building Macro Circular Systems for used Clothing

Abstract

 Circularity is being touted as the next evolution of the fashion system. The model, if successfully implemented, could radically reduce the draw on virgin resources, reduce carbon impacts, eliminate waste and extract considerably higher value from clothing. To transition from the current linear model to a circular one requires the alignment of multiple factors, from up-stream processing capability, logistics, technology and capital. It also requires a broad, birds eye view and long-term planning to maneuver crucial components and resources into place. The Textile Reuse Programme is one such macro system, V.1. designed and under construction in a geographically contained test market, New Zealand.

Introduction

 The aim of this research is to socialise crucial lessons gleaned from over ten years of global sustainable textile research and development. And to introduce to the industry under the agenda of Nature - ‘Fashion systems for sustainability’, new and practising knowledge and technology systems developed within the Textile Reuse Programme. The intent in sharing this knowledge is to advance understanding and accelerate a step change in clothing management towards more resource respectful, circular systems.

There is a growing awareness of the significant impacts of our clothing and textiles. According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation report ‘A New Textiles Economy’ “Negative impacts of the textiles industry are set to drastically increase” [1] through resource consumption, the textile industry’s share of the carbon budget and microfiber contamination. Globally clothing production has hit an estimated 100 billion units per annum, with less than 1% of material used to produce clothing is recycled into new clothing, representing a loss of more than USD $100 billion worth of materials each year.

Clothing product has risen rapidly, doubling in the last eighteen years [1] and is out pacing the market for reused clothing and fibres. During World War Two, vast resources were directed towards the war effort. From the clothing and textile sector demand for uniforms, tents, blankets, sheets and bandages etc. meant companies like nylon manufacturer DuPont, who prior to the war produced women’s stockings, retooled their factories to meet lucrative government contracts, turning to the manufacture of parachutes and rope for the war effort. Post war in the United States, the middle class expanded significantly due in large part to The Servicemen’s Readjustment Act of 1944 otherwise known as the GI Bill, which offered living expenses and tuition payments for returned servicemen and women (based on ethnicity) to attend high school, university or technical school, plus low interest rate mortgages and cheap loans for starting businesses. According to Bound J, et al. [2] over 2.2 million (one in eight) returned servicemen and women attended college or universities under the GI Bill.


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