Iris Publishers_Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology (JTSFT)

Stretch and Physical Properties of Weft Stretch Denim Fabrics Containing Elastane and Filament Yarn

Abstract

In recent years, as a result of the combination of textile materials with different structures and characteristics by using different production methods, yarn and fabric designs with new features have become important. In this study, the effect of cotton wrapped elastic dual core-spun yarns containing elastane and filament on the performance properties of denim fabrics was investigated. Denim fabrics were produced that used in the weft direction of cotton wrapped elastic dual core-spun yarns containing different types filaments and different ratios of elastane in the core. Performance tests conforming to the standards were applied on denim fabrics. In addition, variance and regression analyzes were carried out using the MINITAB package program to evaluate the effects on the fabric performance properties that are believed to originate from dual core-spun weft yarns. The effects of process factors on the fabric properties were expressed using mathematical models.

Keywords: Dual core-spun yarn; Denim fabric; Elasticity; Growth; Shrinkage; Statistical model


Introduction

Elasticity is known as an important feature in clothes. From the user’s point of view, comfort and mobility are enhanced by elasticity. The flexible denim fabrics that surround the body at this point are attract intensive attention today. But the uncontrolled increase of elasticity causes some problems for clothing. One of the most important problems with elasticity in garments is deformities and wrinkles [1]. The increase of fabric growth and shrinkage rate affect the comfort properties of the clothes negatively and cause deformities. As a result, the lifetime and the quality of the clothes decrease. While strength and elasticity are particularly desirable in denim fabrics, high growth and shrinkage are an undesirable feature. Some studies conducted in this area are available in the literature.

Baykus D [2], produced woven fabrics with different constructions of cotton/elastane, cotton/polyester/elastane, and polyester/viscon/elastane blends. After the different end treatments applied, they determined the improvement of shrinkage, elasticity and growth values. They also revealed that the increase in weft and warp frequency improves the growth values.

Babaarslan O, et al. [3], investigated the effects of the elastane core yarn on the strength and elongation properties of the fabric. They found that with elastane core-spun yarns improve the strength and elongation properties of the woven fabrics.

Ozdil N [1] compared the performance characteristics (breaking strength, tear strength, bagging and bending properties) of five different denim fabrics containing different ratios elastane. Due to the increase in elastane ratio in the denim fabric it was found that the elasticity increases, the strength and the permanent bagging values decrease.

El-Ghezal S, et al. [4] conducted a study to investigate the effects of different elastane ratio and finishing processes on denim fabric properties. In the study conducted, they emphasized that the elastane ratio significantly influences the mechanical properties of the fabric. In addition, they also found that the different end treatments applied in the study affected the elasticity and mechanical properties of the fabric in a unique way.

Adeli B, et al. [5], studied the physical and visual changes that occurred in the core-spun yarn and core-spun containing fabric after repeated loading. Within the scope of the study, sample fabrics were produced from core-spun yarns produced with 5 different elastane draw ratios. 500, 1000 and 1500 repetitive loading tests were applied to these fabrics. As a result of the study, it was found that the sample group with an elastane draw ratio of 2.9 showed the lowest elongation ability while the sample group with an elastane draw ratio of 3.9 showed the best elongation ability at the end of 1000 repetitions.

Mourad M [6], produced woven fabrics containing elastane in different proportions. Using statistical methods, examined the effect of the ratio of elastane on cotton fabric properties. It was found that the change in elastane ratio has a significant effect on the physical and tensile properties of cotton woven fabrics.

Studies on estimating the mechanical properties of fabrics using developed mathematical models are available in the literature as well.

Models have been developed to measure warp and weft density of high-strength twill and satin fabrics. The relationship between the weft and warp density through the texture structure of the produced fabrics was established and the unit density with the developed model was determined [7].

Zhang X, et al. [8], developed a mathematical model and investigated the physical mechanism of fabric bagging. They developed an equation that relates the bagging strength to the fabric tensile strength for to be predict fabric bagging performance.

Maqsood Q, et al. [9], investigated the properties of bi-stretch woven fabrics. They have used taguchi gray relational analysis method (GRA) to determine the optimum quality parameters of fabrics of different structures woven using elastane core-spun yarns in the direction of weft and warp. Using this method, the elastane linear density, weft/warp density, and weaving structure factors were found to influence the fabric properties.

By maintaining stretch properties of denim fabrics which are given high elasticity by elastane, it is possible to continue the permanence of stretchiness during usage. For this purpose, different elastomultiester fibers are using together with elastane. In this study, stretch fabrics with stretch properties were fabricated to utilize the properties of alternate fibers to reduce the permanent elongation values and protect the form. Thus, it is aimed to keep undesirable properties such as growth and shrinkage at a minimum level while bringing important characteristics such as usage performance and elasticity to an optimum level in denim fabrics. Denim fabrics were produced with elastic core-spun (dual corespun) weft yarns developed for this purpose. Fabric performance tests were carried out and the results obtained were evaluated.

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